If you purchase a brand-new shirt made from dense, open-end cotton, you might find it slightly rigid straight out of the package. Breaking in stiff cotton jersey is a rite of passage, much like breaking in a new pair of raw denim jeans or leather boots.

To accelerate the break-in process without damaging the shirt, you can soak the garment in cold water mixed with a cup of white vinegar before its first wash. The vinegar helps to break down the natural sizing (starches used during manufacturing) and softens the cotton fibers without degrading them. Furthermore, simply wearing the shirt often will allow your natural body heat and movement to soften the fabric exactly where it creases and bends. Over time, the shirt will mold to your specific body shape.

Understanding the difference between pre-shrunk cotton vs raw cotton care is vital. Most premium modern blanks and high-end vintage reproductions are garment-dyed or heavily washed during production, meaning they are fully pre-shrunk. You can generally wash these in cold or warm water without fear of significant shrinkage.

However, if you happen upon a vintage deadstock (never washed, never worn) shirt, or a brand utilizing "shrink-to-fit" raw cotton, you must exercise caution. Raw cotton can shrink up to 10% in its first wash.

Even with the best care, heavy fabrics can sometimes become misshapen if pulled incorrectly. To keep the collar pristine, never pull the shirt off by ripping it from the back of the neck. Instead, cross your arms, grab the bottom hem, and pull the shirt up and over your head. When hanging the shirt (though folding is always preferred for heavy knits), never push the hanger through the neck hole. Feed the hanger up through the bottom hem to avoid stretching the collar.

At the heart of this movement are long-lasting sustainable capsule wardrobe essentials. The most sustainable garment is the one you do not have to replace.